A wave of adrenaline surges through your body as you gaze at the waves crashing on the shoreline. The excitement of riding these is palpable, yet so is the fear that holds you back.

Sound familiar?

Do you sometimes find yourself pulling back on bigger waves, leaving them for other surfers? Do you sometimes paddle out and sit wide on the shoulder, waiting for a wave but not taking action?

Maybe you got caught inside the impact zone by a big wave and held under. Or maybe you had a major wipeout on a big wave. Whatever it was, it only takes one scary experience to lose your confidence.

But fear is all in the mind, and it's essential to address and conquer it in order to surf bigger waves.

Heavy closeouts, strong currents, getting caught inside, deep water…we’ve all felt apprehension and fear of these at some point so we’re here to tell you, you aren’t alone.

If you want to do an underwater workout or join a workshop and conquer your fear, make sure to check out Chargers and contact us for more info.

This blog will guide you through understanding your fears, building your confidence, and gradually progressing to conquer those larger swells. We'll discuss the psychology behind the fear reaction, methods to overcome surf-related fears, and techniques to help you build your confidence and abilities as a surfer.

Whether you're a beginner or intermediate surfer, these strategies will enable you to conquer your fears and unlock your full surfing potential.

Understanding the psychology behind your fear

Fear is a natural reaction rooted in our deep reptilian brain, hardwired into our genetics as part of survival processes.

In surfing, fear can be both rational and irrational.

While true consequences exist, such as injuries or drowning, irrational aspects of fear and their downstream mental effects often hinder our growth as surfers.

Let’s dive deeper into the science behind fear

A healthy fear of big waves is necessary, as larger waves come with increased power and risks. Being close to this danger releases adrenaline and dopamine, contributing to the rewarding experience of surfing.

However, it's essential to distinguish between healthy fear and an overwhelming, debilitating fear response.

An overwhelming fear response can result from a situation where your nervous system becomes dysregulated, shifting from the fight or flight mode to fright mode.

“Fight or flight” versus “fright” mode

In fight or flight mode, adrenaline release prepares the body for action by increasing blood flow to muscles, quickening breath, and releasing blood sugar for energy. This heightened state of alertness allows for quick reactions.

In contrast, fright mode is a dissociative state characterized by high emotions and impaired thinking along with frantic behavior, lack of awareness of surroundings, hyperventilation, and inability to follow instructions.

Recognizing and managing fear is vital to minimize these unproductive responses and maintain a healthy balance of respect and excitement for the powerful waves we seek to conquer.

So let’s now take a look into how that’s done!

Mastering your fears

Greg Long a big wave surfer widely regarded as one of the best in the world, describes overcoming fear as a exercise in shaping reality:

“For me, the greatest trick to overcoming fear, especially in big waves, is the understanding and embodiment of the fact that I have total control over how I interpret and react to every situation I face in life. All of our experiences are a result of how we perceive what is happening around us, and in every moment of our life we have a choice to perceive them in a positive, or a negative way.”

So if it’s all in your mind, let’s break down 4 tips on what you need to do to master your fear and start surfing big(ger) waves.

1. Identify your fears

Self-awareness is key to overcoming fear. So name those fears!

Whether you talk to fellow surfers or a surf coach, journal about them, or meditate on them, reflecting on your concerns and past experiences is the beginning of mastering their hold on you and building mental fortitude.

2. Build confidence in your surfing ability and water awareness

A strong foundation is essential to feel confident in the water.

But where do you start?

Here are some questions to assess where you are now so that you can understand where you need to put in the work (answer them honestly!):

Do you have the fitness in place in case your leash snaps and you have to swim?

Fitness and endurance are key to feeling confident in the water and will help you navigate tricky situations where swimming without the aid of your surfboard, paddling (a lot), or repetitive duck diving are a necessity.

Is your equipment up for the surf?

Following the above, making sure that your surfboard, leash, fins, and other equipment are in good condition and attuned to the conditions you're planning to tackle is a must. Plus, more than that providing you a sense of security, using the right gear will enhance your performance.

Are you comfortable in hold-down scenarios?

Practicing breath-holding techniques and training for hold-down scenarios will help you stay calm and focused when caught underwater, reducing the risk of panic and injury.

Is the surf you're looking at steps ahead of where you're currently at in terms of skill?

Do an honest assessment of where you’re at in terms of surfing (or ask someone you surf/train with) to make sure the surf conditions align with your abilities. Gradually progressing to more challenging waves will help build confidence and reduce the risk of accidents.

Do you know the reef layout or rip positions in case you did need to swim? What about water hazards?

Familiarize yourself with the local break, including the reef layout, water hazards, and rip positions. To better understand the ocean, try to study swell charts, currents, and learn how to read surf and wind forecasts. Deeply understanding your surroundings and the changing conditions will allow you to navigate the waters safely and efficiently in case of an emergency.

After you’ve done an honest assessment of where you’re at, consider taking surf lessons, attending a surf camp, or learning from more experienced surfers. The more you practice, the more you will automatically remember what to do in a variety of situations which will, in turn, increase your comfort level in the water.

3. Strengthen your mind

Maintaining a positive attitude is crucial for overcoming fear. But it’s not always easy to do. And that’s where visualization techniques come in.

Many big wave surfers and other pro athletes practice visualization to calm their mind and focus on what they are looking to accomplish. Visualization techniques can help you mentally prepare for bigger waves while keeping you calm and focused.

Spend time imagining the entire process, from paddling out to catching the wave, riding it, and finishing with a controlled exit. This will help you anticipate potential obstacles and develop strategies for overcoming them.

Taking the time to thoroughly prepare for your surfing sessions will not only help alleviate your fears but also set you up for a safer, more enjoyable experience in the water.

All in all, preparation is crucial in conquering your surfing fears.

By being physically, mentally, and logistically prepared, you'll have the confidence to face larger waves and challenging conditions. Assessing your readiness and incorporating techniques such as breath work and visualization will help you better prepare for taking on bigger waves.

4. Strengthen your body

Mental preparation is just half the battle. And making sure you’re in top form will help you feel at ease in tough conditions as well as give you that extra boost of confidence to take off on bigger waves and handle tricky hold downs.

Underwater workouts are a great place to start. They can help build your lung capacity and make you more relaxed in challenging conditions.

Plus, water resistance makes basic exercises more challenging and effective in a uniquely low-impact setting. Learning to be as comfortable as possible in the most uncomfortable situation - underwater and out of breath - is key to staying calm in tough conditions both on land and at sea and conquering your fear of surfing bigger waves.

5. Join a community

A supportive community can make a significant difference in overcoming fear.

Connect with like-minded surfers by joining local surf clubs, participating in surf meetups and events, or engaging in online forums and social media. Surfing with buddies not only provides safety but also offers encouragement and motivation.

Wrapping it up

Addressing and overcoming fear is vital for surfers looking to ride bigger waves.

By understanding your fears, building confidence, gradually progressing, and fostering a healthy mindset, you can conquer the waves you once thought were insurmountable.

Take the plunge and unlock your full surfing potential – you might be surprised at what you can achieve.

So, you wanna overcome your fears? Join us for a group or private lesson. Drop us a line at omri@chargers.org.il or give us a ring at +(972) 52-647-4876.